Classic Chicago Magazine

In very ancient days apparently dirt was thought to block diseases from entering the body. Soon though it was discovered by combining oils with lye, and obtaining a lather that dirt can be removed. The chemical reaction of so doing is called saponification, and further details of this process follow later.

Today, most people know that soap, is a cleansing product and we usually use it to wash. Soap solubilizes the particles—the grime. One must work soap into a lather by means of water and friction to wash.

Soap is one of the wonderful inventions of mankind. It prevents the spread of bacteria and diseases, and helps people live longer. Absolutely remarkable.

The first soaps can be found in the area of fertile crescent with the Babylonians showing they understood soap making as early as 2800 BCE.

Who made the first soaps?

Not the Chinese, because soap as we know it was not used till the modern era.

Not Egyptians, as their first soaps — more like pastes around 1550 BCE were used to treat skin diseases. Also though, for washing clothes, a crystallized mineral brine called natron was used by Egyptians, but not for cleansing skin.

Not the Romans, as they stuck with the strigil (a curved metal tool for scraping) and olive oil for cleansing until 2nd century AD when they conquered Germania and Gaul and discovered these countries had lye.

The first actual soap — the oldest soap in the world was around 2500 BCE from Syria, originating in Aleppo called green and gold. The initial color of this hand-made soap is a green color from the added bay wood and leaves, it is then put in the shade for about seven months and the color gradually changes to a brown gold. The process is still carried out occasionally today and the added baywood gives it remarkable antifungal properties.

Syrian Aleppo soap in its green stage
Syrian Aleppo soap — the green stage
Aleppo soap aged to brown gold
Aleppo soap aged to brown gold

Perfumed Soap

In the early days the oils used for soap making were of animal fats, with the resulting rather unpleasant smells. Initially perfumes were added to combat this, as well as colorants, but then when the more expensive olive oil and almond oil replaced the animal oils in soapmaking, so did addition of lavender, violet, freesia, rose perfumes and scented herbs.

In France, particularly Marseille, the perfumed soaps are desired.

Roger & Gallet Lavande Royale soap
Roger & Gallet, Lavande Royale
Savon de Marseille
Savon de Marseille
Provence Santé Rose Sauvage
Provence Santé Rose Sauvage
Avéral Huile d'Argan soap
Avéral, Huile d’Argan
Definition

Saponification is a traditional method used to make soap. It involves the transformation of fatty substances into soap through the action of a strong base (lye or potash). In the early days, this process initially took some 48 hours, and longer for companies in mass production.


Saponification and Early Mastery

A particular difficulty of soap making is getting the ratio correct between lye and oils. We can thank scientists for the development of soap as we know it today.

In 1807 Andrew Pears in London used a ratio to produce an amber colored gentle transparent soap offering an alternative to the harsh opaque soaps available at the time.

When in the 1860s Louis Pasteur developed germ theory, the consequence of the importance of sanitation and hygiene in disease prevention, meant that soap and cleanliness became very important. Various taxes hitherto levied on soaps were lifted, and soap was more available.

Soon after we find the first celebrity endorsement of a soap by Lillie Langtry who endorsed Pears soap. Later we will talk of the soap companies endorsing daytime television in the “soap operas.”

Pears Transparent Soap box
Pears Transparent Soap
The iconic amber Pears bar
The iconic amber Pears bar
Lillie Langtry endorses Pears Soap
Lillie Langtry endorses Pears Soap

True Soaps and Syndets

The strong alkaline compounds — the types of lye, used for saponification in soap making can irritate some skins because of leaving a faint alkaline residue.

If not using lye, then synthetic detergent is added and these bars of soap are called syndets (from the first syllables of the synthetic detergent.)

Soap Science

True Soap vs. Syndet: Dove soap is the first Syndet Bar developed by Lever Bros in 1957, marketed for its mildness and moisturizing properties, setting it apart from traditional soaps. Other syndets are available but there is still a large demand for real soaps using old methods.

Dove soap bar, the first syndet bar
Dove — the first syndet bar, 1957

All the big companies such as Lever Brothers, Procter and Gamble, Henkel Corporation, Armour Brothers, Colgate, Palmolive have been very involved in soap production over the world, and each have had an enormous impact on soap as we know it today.


Important Milestones

In the 1930s Procter & Gamble (P&G) — who had launched Ivory soap in 1879 — revolutionized soap manufacturing by transitioning from traditional batch-kettle boiling to a continuous process, significantly reducing production time from roughly a week to less than a day.

After WW2, a process engineer at P&G, Robert Duncan worked with German market leaders in synthetic detergents to develop the detergents we know today. Crucial in this development was the knowledge of combining the correct amount of surfactant — which contributes to lather, and the amount of emollients for moisturizing.


Liquid Soaps

The Tradeoff

Surfactants and emollients are the foundational ingredients in soaps working in opposition to clean the skin and to maintain a moisture barrier.

  • More surfactant → more lather but more drying to the skin.
  • More emollients → more moisturizing and the more creamy the soap.

Liquid soaps are increasingly popular for a few reasons including the fact that more emollients can be added and, as so clearly evidenced by hotels adopting liquid soaps, it is more economical with less waste and possible easier maintenance.

Hotel liquid soap dispensers
Hotel liquid soap dispensers
Liquid soap
The rise of liquid soap

“But how can we compare the industrial, utilitarian soap dispenser with the rich history and sumptuousness of the historical, rich soaps with perfume to evoke memories from another era?”


The Art of Soap

Unwrapping a beautiful bar of soap is a delight of life with the perfume emerging. Some stores use particular cakes of soap as their hallmark. Many people use bars of soap in clothing drawers to add elegance to the home.


Further Thoughts

As years go on, there is always room for more development. Scientists look at effects of elements for antibacterial, antiseptic, anti-microbial aspects. Over the years various brand-name soaps have been scrutinized and some ingredients eliminated as being culprits in conditions adverse to humans. As in many areas there are trade-offs for desired aspects. We the public will be alerted to such developments.

For example, during COVID more demand for antiseptics and anti-bacterial products occurred. Some ingredients of some products have come under scrutiny for increasing skin disorders or asthma.


The Soap Opera

The name soap opera actually comes from the original sponsors — soap manufacturers who were targeting homemakers during the day with programming of family dramas.

If Lillie Langtry was the first celebrity to endorse a product as with Pears soap, then it was P&G and other soap companies who bankrolled these early radio dramas. TV just picked up the format and the daytime scheduling pattern too.


Dynamite

In addition to soap, the chemical reaction of saponification also produces glycerin, a fatty substance, which became of interest to Alfred Nobel and by a process called nitration became the powerful and highly unstable substance nitroglycerin. Then mixing this with a fine sand called kieselguhr the liquid was turned into paste, which Nobel called dynamite.


Soaps to Lather in Salt Water?

Today travelers on recreational yachts and sail boats often have need for being able to wash with seawater. The early ocean liners completing long voyages used seawater in the showers. Thus the need for soaps to lather. Not surprisingly these soaps are called sailor’s soaps and available today.

Tilley Sea Water & Hard Water Soap
Tilley Sea Water & Hard Water Soap
Sailor Soap for saltwater lathering
Sailor Soap — for saltwater lathering

Antiseptics and Surgery

Following Pasteur’s germ theory, surgeons began using antiseptics to wash hands, clean instruments, and spray the air during surgery in the mid-to-late 1860s, primarily pioneered by British surgeon Joseph Lister in 1865.

Since 1954 Chlorhexidine gluconate is a widely used, broad-spectrum antiseptic and disinfectant effective against bacteria, fungi, and some viruses, used widely by surgeons before surgery.

Modern surgical scrubbing technique
Modern surgical scrubbing — the legacy of Pasteur and Lister

Soap: truly one of the greatest inventions of mankind!

Soap is indeed considered one of the most impactful inventions in human history, often hailed as a major force in the advancement of public health and modern civilization. Its simple ability to break down fats and oils makes it a powerful weapon against unseen pathogens, drastically reducing the spread of diseases.

And so because we know that cleanliness is next to godliness, do as the slogans promise:
“Wash away your worries”
“Lather up for a brighter day”

Jill Lowe, photographed by Joe Mazza
Jill Lowe writes the “Facts and Froth” column for Classic Chicago Magazine.
Photo of Jill by Joe Mazza, Bravelux Inc.
Photos copyright ©2026 Jill Lowe. All rights reserved.
Images from Shutterstock license.
Many thanks and attribution to Ann Lewis of Canberra, retired history teacher who completed much of the information contained herein.
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